Sand or file down the lip. If you do find that the lip is sticking out too far, file or sand it down with sandpaper so that the wheel can spin smoothly. Be very careful not to sand off so much that the brake pads won’t work! You may need to remove the wheel to do this.
Do not use lubricant on brake pads, rotors, or rims. This might ruin the pads and make it hard for you to stop your bike!
Split housing and corroded cables are common when you have stuck brakes.
WD-40 and other industrial-grade degreasing products may “wash” the factory lubricant off the cable. When the WD-40 evaporates, there will be very little lubricant residue on the cable.
Put the cables back into the casing. Thread the loose end of the cable through the clamp at the end where you removed it. Then, check the “free travel”: the distance the brake lever can be squeezed before the brake contacts the wheel. Tighten the clamp when the brake pads are about 1⁄4 inch (0. 6 cm) from the wheel with the lever released.
Make sure you don’t get a lot of air bubbles in your replacement fluid. This can lead to the brakes feeling soft. Never use mineral oil as brake fluid if your user’s manual specifies DOT (Department of Transportation-approved brake fluid). Likewise, never use DOT if your manual tells you to use mineral oil. ’ If you mixed up your fluids last time you bled the system, then that might be your problem. Avoid getting any oil or dot fluid on the brake pads because this will ruin them.
Unscrew the brake pads, located on the inside of the brake calipers above your tires. The brake pad is the small piece of rubber on the lower inside of the caliper that actually comes into contact with the wheel. [9] X Research source Adjust the brake so that it is 3 - 5 mm from the rim. Tighten the brake pad. Spin the wheel in the air and test the brakes. Adjust further as needed. [10] X Research source
Read bicycle shop reviews online before you visit. You should be able to get a good sense for whether the mechanics there are helpful.
