Precocial birds are much easier to care for than altricial birds, but they are less likely to require help. Precocial birds usually make their nest at ground level, and so cannot fall out or be thrown from their nests. If you find a lost precocial chicks, make an effort to reunite it with its mother before taking it in. Newly hatched altricial birds are completely helpless, and will therefore require assistance. It is common to encounter altricial birds in suburban areas who have fallen or been thrown from their nest. In some cases, you will be able to put the baby back in its nest, in others you will have to care for it yourself. It is also acceptable to leave the baby bird where it is and let nature take it’s course.
If the baby bird you have found is a nestling, it should not be out of the nest and something is definitely wrong. It may have fallen out of its nest or been pushed out by stronger siblings. An abandoned nestling has almost no chance of survival if left on its own. If you have come across a fledgling however, you may want to take some time to assess the situation before you pursue any heroics. Though it may appear as if the bird has fallen or been abandoned, fluttering and chirping helplessly on the ground, it may just be learning to fly. If you observe the chick for long enough, you will probably see the parents coming back to feed it at regular intervals. If this is the case, you should definitely not intervene. [2] X Research source
Do not worry about the parents rejecting the baby due to its “human” smell. This is an old wives’ tale. Birds actually have a very poor sense of smell and identify their young mostly by sight and sound. In the majority of cases, they will accept the fallen chick back into their nest. Once you have placed the baby bird back in the nest, make a hasty retreat – don’t hang around to make sure the parents return, you will only frighten them away. If you can, watch the nest from inside the house, using a pair of binoculars. Be aware that, in many cases, placing the baby bird back in the nest will not ensure its survival. If it is the weakest chick in the nest, it is likely that it will be thrown from the nest again by the stronger chicks, as they vie for food and warmth. If you see any dead chicks inside the nest, then the nest has been abandoned and it will be no use returning the fallen chick. In this situation, you will need to care for the chick, along with any of its surviving brothers and sisters, if you want to ensure their survival. [4] X Research source
Collect the fallen chicks and warm them up in your hands before placing them back in the nest. Leave the area, but try to watch the nest from afar. The parent birds may be suspicious of the new nest of first, but their instinct to care for their chicks should help them to overcome this. If the original nest is completely destroyed, you can make a new one by lining a berry basket with paper towel. Even though the original nest may have been made from grass, you should not line your make-shift nest with grass, as it contains moisture which can chill the baby birds.
The best thing to do in these situations is to call a bird rehabilitation center who can take the baby bird in. These centers have experience in caring for baby birds and will give them the best chance of survival. [6] X Research source If you do not know where to find a bird rehabilitation center, call a local veterinarian or game warden who can provide you with the information you need. In some cases, there may not be a bird or general wildlife center in your locality, but there may be an individual, licensed rehabilitator somewhere close by. If none of the above options are feasible, or you are unable to transport the bird to the rehabilitation center, it may be necessary to care for the baby bird yourself. Bear in mind that this should be a last resort, as caring for and feeding a baby bird is extremely demanding and the bird’s chances of survival are low. In addition, it is technically against the law to keep or care for a wild bird in captivity, unless you have the proper permits and licenses.
When the baby bird has opened it’s eyes and sprouted some feathers, you can wait 30 to 45 minutes between feedings. After that, you can gradually increase the amount of food per feeding and reduce the number of feeding times accordingly. Once the baby bird is strong enough to leave the nest and begins hopping around the box, you can feed it about once an hour. You can gradually reduce this time to once every 2 to 3 hours and begin leaving bits of food in the box for the bird to pick at by itself.
An excellent starter diet for a recently hatched altricial bird is one made up of 60% puppy or kitten kibble, 20% hard boiled eggs and 20% mealworms (which can be purchased online). The kibble should be moistened with water until it reaches a sponge-like consistency, though it should not be dripping water as the baby bird can drown in the excess fluid. The hard-boiled eggs and mealworms should be chopped into pieces small enough for the baby bird to swallow.
Insect-eating birds will eat earthworms, grasshoppers and crickets that have been chopped up very small, along with any insects you collect at the bottom of a “bug zapper”. Fruit-eating birds will eat berries, grapes and raisins soaked in water.
Doves, pigeons and parrot-like birds usually eat a what’s called “pigeon milk”, a substance regurgitated by the mother. To replicate this, you will need to feed these chicks a hand-feeding formula designed for parrots (available at pet supply stores) through a plastic syringe with the needle removed. Although it’s less likely that you’ll encounter the other breeds of chicks, their requirements are as follows: Hummingbirds will need a specialized nectar formula, fish-eating birds will need chopped up minnows (available at fish bait stores), birds of prey will eat insects, rodents and smaller chicks, and baby precocial birds will do well on turkey or game bird starter.
Don’t worry about the food going down the wrong way, as the bird’s glottis will shut automatically as it’s feeding. If the baby’s mouth is not gaping, tap it’s beak lightly with the feeding instrument or rub the food around the edge of the beak. This signals to the bird that it’s time to feed. If the bird still won’t open its mouth, gently force it open. Keep feeding until the bird is reluctant to open it’s beak or starts rejecting the food. It is important not to overfeed the chicks.
You can place a stone or a couple of marbles into the water container so the bird doesn’t stand in it. If you believe that a baby bird is dehydrated, you will need to bring it to a vet or bird rehabilitator who can inject the bird with fluids.
Never line the nest with stringy or shredded bedding as these can wrap around the baby’s wings and throat. You should also avoid using grass, leaves, moss or twigs as these can be damp and easily become mouldy. You should change the chicks bedding whenever it becomes damp or soiled.
It is very important to maintain the bird’s nest at a regular temperature, so it is probably best to keep a thermometer in the box. If the baby is less than a week old (eyes closed, no feathers) the temperature should be around 95 °F (35 °C). This can be reduced by 5 degrees with every passing week. It is also important that you keep the box in an area away from direct sunlight and drafts. This is because newly hatched baby birds are very susceptible to chilling and overheating, as they have a large body surface relative to their weight and have not yet developed insulating feathers.
Excessive or improper handling, loud noises, incorrect temperatures, overcrowding (if you have more than one chick), disorganized feeding schedules or incorrect food. You should also try to observe and hold the bird at eye level, as birds do not like to be peered down on. Holding them at eye level makes you seem less predatory.
To get an indication of whether the baby bird is growing normally for its breed, you will need to consult a growth chart. If the bird is gaining weight very slowly, or not at all, it is a definite indication that something is wrong. In this situation, you should bring the bird to a vet or rehabilitation center immediately, or it is likely to die. [17] X Research source
Once it can fly easily and gain altitude, it is ready to be released outdoors. Take it to an area where you have noticed other birds of the same species and there is plenty of food ability and let it fly away. If you are releasing the bird into your garden, you may leave its cage outside with the door wide open. Then the baby bird can decide for itself when it is ready to leave. The less time a bird is kept in captivity, the better the chance of survival in the wild, so don’t put off the release date for any longer than strictly necessary.
