It’s especially important to do away with absorbent plant matter. Things like dead leaves, old mulch, and decaying plant stalks have a tendency to hold water, which will just keep your soil soggy. [2] X Research source If you don’t clear your work site first, there’s also a risk that you could inadvertently work the debris down into the soil as you turn it, making the problem worse. You can enhance air circulation and access to sunlight even further by cutting back sources of deep shade, such as overgrown shrubs and high branches with thick foliage.
You’ll know your soil is ready to aerate once it’s firm to the touch. It can still be wet, but it shouldn’t be so soft that it loses its shape easily. [4] X Trustworthy Source Iowa State University Extension and Outreach Iowa State University’s Extension and Outreach program dedicated to educating and engaging communities Go to source As mentioned, proper exposure to sunlight and air is key to drying out soggy soil quickly. For this reason, it’s best to plan your project for a clear, dry stretch where no further precipitation is expected.
If you need to cover more ground, it may be worth it to invest in a manual or motorized rotary aeration machine. [6] X Research source
To use a step aerator, place the prongs against the ground at a 90-degree angle and place your full weight on the head of the tool with one foot to plunge it into the dirt. When using a rake or fork, thrust the prongs into the ground like a spear, then rock the long handle back and forth to loosen the soil. If you’ve opted for a pair of aeration shoes, simply strap them to your feet and walk back and forth across your work site. With this method, you’ll get a little exercise as an added bonus! Operating an aerator machine is usually as easy as pushing it across your work surface like a lawn mower, but be sure to consult the manufacturer’s instructions to ensure that you’re using the tool safely and effectively. [8] X Research source
Removing large clumps of loosened dirt can give the soil more room to expand, which in turn will improve its ability to drain more completely.
Failing to remove unwanted debris could allow it to find its way into the soil once you add your desired amendments, leaving the soil more waterlogged than before.
Moisture adds considerable weight to soil, so you’ll have a much easier time working your amendments into the dirt when it’s partially dry. If time is of the essence, it’s alright to begin amending your soil while it is still somewhat soggy. Just be aware that you’ll need to use a lot more elbow grease.
You’ll find pea gravel in various sizes at any gardening store, or in the lawn and garden aisle of your local home improvement center. You also have the option of using sand rather than gravel, provided you’re working with a non-clay soil type. Introducing sand to wet clay can cause it to harden like concrete. [9] X Research source
When you add gravel or sand to dirt, you increase the amount of space occupied by non-nutritive components. Your organic amendments will offset this effect by boosting the overall nutrient content of the soil. It’s okay to skip this step if you don’t plan on growing anything in the dirt you’re drying.
Once you’ve amended the wet soil, any water remaining in the upper reaches should drain away faster than usual. You’ll likely have fewer problems with moisture retention for a few weeks or months afterwards.
The supplement known as “quicklime” is actually calcium oxide, while hydrated lime is more accurately known as calcium hydroxide. Both products serve the same function, but quicklime is generally the speedier of the two products. Avoid using standard agricultural lime. This type of lime is simply pulverized limestone, so it won’t be any more effective than drying amendments like gravel or sand.
While you’re at it, it’s a good idea to strap on a facemask to avoid inhaling irritating dust. Long-sleeved work clothes are also highly recommended. Be careful not to touch the lime with any unprotected part of your body, especially if your skin is wet or damp. [13] X Research source
Try to make sure that the lime is an even thickness over your entire work site. If necessary, you can pile on additional lime in spots with standing water or particularly muddy soil.
It may be necessary to work the lime as deep as 10–12 inches (25–30 cm) below the surface of the dirt if your work site is completely saturated. You should be able to tell a significant difference in the moisture level of your soil within roughly an hour of treatment.
Walking back and forth over small patches of dirt will also have the same effect without the need to use any additional equipment. Compacting large expanses efficiently may require you to use an industrial rolling device, such as a sheep’s foot or flat wheel roller. [18] X Research source
